Porcelain is the result of a more controlled manufacturing process than ordinary ceramics, made through a mixture of porcelain and various minerals burned at over 1200 degrees Celsius. The resulting material is more homogeneous, dense, vitrified, and resistant than conventional ceramics.

Yes, but this depends heavily on the installation. To optimize durability, the subfloor or base on which the tiling will be glued must be flat, stable, and without irregularities. Depending on the dimensions of each tile, the proper mortar must be used. For larger pieces, manufacturers recommend double gluing on the subfloor and the back of the tile. Generally, carefully following the manufacturers’ recommendations is always the best thing to do.

Of course, you will need to know the area of the space. But you should also plan to start with more than the exact number of tiles that will fill the area, due to breaks and cutouts. Generally, adding 5 to 7% in surplus to account for cut loss is sufficient if the environment is simple (square or rectangular with few cutouts). If the plan is diagonal or if the environment has a distinctive or organic shape, then many pieces will have to be cut at the corners. In these scenarios, it is important to provide a surplus of up to 15% to avoid material deficit during installation.

Virtually any floor tile can be installed on the wall, though in most cases, it is not appropriate to switch them. Consult the installer or product manufacturer for application recommendations.

Yes, but not all paints work. In the case of highly waterproof and smooth surfaces, the paint should be highly adhesive, for which manufacturers recommend epoxy paint. It is also necessary to prepare the base, following the directions of the product packaging.